Taira no Masakado: The Infamous Vengeful Ghost

BURIAL PLACE OF TAIRA NO MASAKADO’S HEAD, IN OTEMACHI, TOKYO

Japanese culture has a longstanding belief in the existence of ghosts, hauntings, and spiritual dimensions. Typically, individuals are reluctant to live in a house or apartment where a death has occurred. There exists at least one website that compiles a list of these haunted properties in order to caution prospective buyers and renters. With that being said, let us now discuss the most renowned specter of Japan, who incidentally haunts the city of Tokyo.

Taira no Masakado, a samurai of the Heian period, was the leader of the first recorded uprising against the governing body in Kyoto. Consequently, the central government in Kyoto responded by placing a bounty on his head. Fifty-nine days later, his cousin Taira no Sadamori, whose father Masakado had attacked and slain, and Fujiwara no Hidesato killed him at the Battle of Kojima and transported his severed head to the capital.

 Masakado was a member of the Kanmu Taira clan and one of the sons of Taira no Yoshimasa. The Taira clan were descendants of Emperor Kanmu, who ruled from 781 to 806. Subsequently, they were demoted from their noble position to that of commoners and bestowed with the Taira surname. During his late teens, Masakado ventured to the capital city of Heian-kyo (Kyoto) and became a member of the household of the imperial regent Fujiwara no Tadahira. It is rumored that he had ambitions of joining the imperial police force, but unfortunately, he was unable to secure a court rank or any notable position, despite his impressive credentials and the influential status of his patron.

There is ongoing debate regarding the precise reason behind Masakado's rebellion. Some sources depict it as a result of Masakado's disappointment in not obtaining a government position, while others indicate that it initially arose from a disagreement over a woman. However, the Konjaku Monogatarishu (c. 1120) presents an alternative explanation for the conflict. It suggests that Masakado's uncles had taken possession of the lands that were rightfully his inheritance from his deceased father.

What is known is that in 939, Masakado spearheaded a minor rebellion known as Tengyo no Ran. The armed conflict began when Masakado launched an attack on an outpost of the central government in Hitachi Province, managing to capture the governor. In December of that year, he successfully took control of Shimotsuke and Kozuke Provinces, claiming himself as the new emperor. As a consequence, Masakado met a tragic end.

His severed head was taken to the capital for presentation to the emperor. Establishing a groundbreaking precedent in criminal law, Masakado’s head was publicly exhibited in the city's marketplace as a grizzly warning to those who harbored thoughts of leading a rebellion. The emperor also made it clear that no Buddhist burial or memorial service would be allowed for his remains, leaving his spirit to wander this earthly realm without any hope of redemption.

There were accounts of people witnessing Masakado's eyes opening while his head was on display. One observer documented seeing Masakado's head, which was seen turning from side to side, emitting groans as it desperately searched for its body. Eventually, the head detached itself and took flight towards the north, in a relentless quest to reunite with its missing torso.

Eventually Masakado's head found its final resting place in the quaint fishing village of Shibazaki, which became Edo. The locals cleaned it and gave it a respectful burial at Kanda Shrine, engraving the gravestone with prayers to bring peace to Masakado's restless soul. However, whenever unexplained trouble arose, the villagers attributed it to the vengeful spirit of Masakado.

During the Edo period, Taira no Masakado gained recognition as kabuki theater, woodblock prints, and books for the masses became increasingly popular. Masakado's ghost became a popular subject in entertainment for those who believed in the supernatural.

In the late 1800s, Kanda Shrine was relocated to its current location. The Ministry of Finance acquired the former site, now coexisting with Masakado's tomb on the same premises. 

Amidst the catastrophic Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the subsequent fires, the Ministry of Finance building was completely destroyed. Surprisingly, Masakado's underground tomb remained completely intact. After a mere two years, the land had been completely leveled. A makeshift structure was built to accommodate the Ministry of Finance. Within a span of two years, a total of 14 individuals from the finance ministry met their untimely demise under suspicious circumstances. The Vice-Minister of Finance, Hayashi Seiji, unexpectedly succumbed to a mysterious illness. Individuals who worked in the vicinity of the previous burial location expressed discomfort in their feet. Their lack of respect for Masakado was considered the root of all their troubles.

The structure built on Masakado's tomb was ultimately demolished. Shinto priests were summoned to conduct a purification ceremony and offer prayers for Masakado's soul. A hedge, a stone lantern, and a monument were constructed with the intention of pacifying his restless soul.

In 1940, one thousand years after Masakado’s death, fires caused by lightning destroyed the Ministry of Finance and nine other adjacent government buildings. Kawada Isao, the Minister of Finance, erected a monument upon the exact spot of Masakado’s tomb that had been so thoughtlessly destroyed after the 1923 earthquake. A Shinto ceremony marking the 1,000th anniversary of Masakado’s death was held to comfort his spirit.

During the devastating firebombing of Tokyo in March 1945, the vicinity of Masakado's tomb was once again engulfed in flames, yet miraculously, the monument itself remained largely untouched. Following the war, the occupying forces, without recognizing the potential consequences of provoking the spirit of Masakado, proceeded to clear the area and transform it into a parking lot. Based on the records at the Kanda Shrine, it was reported that an unfortunate incident occurred where the bulldozer overturned, resulting in the death of the driver. Members of the local community were deeply disturbed by the Americans' actions. Concerned about potential retaliation from Masakado, the community leader requested the Occupation Forces to grant permission for the preservation the burial site. Their request was granted and the local people adopted the gravesite, keeping it clean and offering flowers and prayers.

In 1984, Taira no Masakado's reputation underwent a transformation, leading to his enshrinement as one of the three deities at the Kanda Shrine in Tokyo. The Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ, situated next to Masakado's grave, established an account in his name. Every year, a generous amount of money is contributed to the donation box at his gravesite. This significant sum, totaling 800,000 yen ($7,000), is diligently maintained for the purpose of taking care for the gravesite.

Although the monument — built in 1940 upon the spot where Masakado’s head was buried so many years before — today occupies prime real estate in downtown Tokyo, it is still carefully preserved, honored, and respected. You can find it near Otemachi Station, a stone’s throw from the Imperial Palace.

Prior to its 2020 renovation, Taira no Masakado's grave was adorned with numerous frog statues. In Japanese, the words "frog" and "return home" are pronounced the same way, kaeru. Masakado's head found its final resting place due to his relentless pursuit of reuniting with his body. Individuals hoping for the safe return of their missing loved ones, as well as those embarking on journeys and seeking Masakado's protection, placed frog statues near his grave as an act of prayer. Today, in order to maintain the cleanliness of the gravesite, the frog statues have been relocated to Kanda Shrine. Unfortunately, they are no longer accessible to the general public, and no additional statues can be presented as offerings.